Saturday, August 17, 2013

How many tongues does it take to get to the center of a Tutsi (or Hutu) pop?

Dear reader,

I hope you are still able to recall those occasions when, as a child in search of permission for some controversial activity, sound strategy dictated selectively approaching one parent before the other such that the precedent assent of the more laid-back of the pair would pressure the other to concede in spite of their better judgment so as not to appear the heartless disciplinarian. For our EWB team this past week, such youthful exploitations of adult psychologies proved to be continually applicable life lessons.

Faced with the less than encouraging responses to our proposals from big poppa EWSA described by previous posts, our adopted Uncle figure, the Chief Executive Secretary of the Cyanika sector, became a stalwart proponent of our plan to install rainwater catchment systems as a primary phase. We suspect his taking up of this position was motivated in equal parts by a good natured sense of protection as by fear of our abandoning the project altogether, nonetheless the shift was significant given his initially expressed predilection towards the pipeline extension. With the Chief’s blessing, our motherly and nurturing hosts comprising the Community Vision Board received our bid to implement catchment with much enthusiasm. The Board members were swayed by the community’s ownership of the water, the immediacy of the solution, and the entrepreneurial opportunities afforded through accumulated user-fees. Thundercats are GO!

 
The sunny reversal of circumstances above was a sign of things to come; the rest of the perfectly temperate afternoon was spent following the umudugudu leaders through the stunning Cyanika landscape to additional potential catchment sites, as was the following morning. Thursday afternoon, after topographically mapping six sites in rapid succession, we were gifted with a sight right out of an umuzungu’s African fantasies- the utterly undeveloped and enigmatic Lake Burera. The nearby cousin to the more widely renowned Lake Kivu, the terraformed shores of Burera fade into the mist with equal mystery, yet the crystal clear waters tempt one to dive in without the omnipresent threat of being permeated by innumerable burrowing, suctioning, and slithering extremophile parasites mutated by methane into deadly micro-beasts. The Chief asked what we, as engineers and architects, would do to improve the place. My suggestion: don’t.

 
Upon returning to the hotel, thoroughly exhausted and soiled by long hours of surveying and collecting earth samples, we were surprised by a phone call received the very instant we’d collapsed into our beds. The Chief had stopped at our hotel to visit with a few of his superiors, apparently mentioned our work, and it turned out they wanted to meet us; what better way to celebrate a successful two weeks of work than getting tipsy with government officials? I’ll admit I was mildly nervous at first, we were quite beat and these were the Rwandan equivalents of state senators, but after they ordered us all a few rounds (each round here consists of two beers, so you can figure the math) those anxieties evaporated and a boisterous conversation ensued in a wholly postmodern admixture of French, English, Swahili, Kinyarwanda, and gestures exaggerated by inebriation. Topics ranged from the acceptable number of children in a family:

            Rwandan Officials “Ten or eleven is just more fun, if you don’t like some of ‘em                                                   there are always others to visit! You can have your own                                                          football team!”

            EWB Team      “Are you kidding me? How can you remember all their names?”

To national gun control policies:

            Rwandan Officials “Teenagers can buy guns? Isn’t that dangerous?”

            EWB Team      “Uhh…. yeah”

It also merits mentioning the openness with which our Rwandan counterparts were willing to discuss their nation’s history, including the darker periods we are all too familiar with. Between the forces of colonial guilt, the NAACP, and the separation of Church and State in the U.S., we often refuse to deliberate provocative subjects rather than expose them to public consideration though most of us recognize repression often results in the minimally concealed festering of open wounds, merely delaying violent repercussions. The present success of the reconciliation of Rwandan ethnic groups based upon candidness and public accountability is a powerful testament to the merits of transparency.

We rounded out the evening with a hearty dinner at our favorite local Italian joint, Alberto’s. In case we hadn’t butchered enough languages yet that evening, we instigated a conversation in Spanish with a Belgian engineer who currently lives in Guadalajara, Mexico and has been in Musanze for nearly two years on a job assignment. I took it upon myself to explain that some claim Colorado as the world’s new Belgium of beer. He was not pleased, but took the news in stride.

May your hearts and glasses always be full,
Michael Salka


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